The Weave Encyclopedia

Varanasi

The Mughal-descended brocade of Varanasi — gold-woven jaal and jangla in kadwa figuring, the reference standard for Indian bridal silk.

Kanchipuram

The temple-town silk of Tamil Nadu — heavy mulberry with a korvai-joined contrast border and pure-zari pallu, woven to be handed down.

Paithan

The tapestry silk of Paithan — a peacock-and-lotus pallu built interlock by interlock in pure zari, with a reversible border. Among the most patient work on any loom.

Patan

The double-ikat silk of Patan — warp and weft resist-dyed to align only at the loom, months in the making, identical on both faces. One of the world's most demanding weaves.

Chanderi

The "woven air" of Malwa — a sheer, luminous silk-cotton ground scattered with fine zari buti. Featherlight and quietly radiant.

Bhagalpur

The wild golden silk of Bhagalpur — naturally slubbed tussar (never mulberry) with a warm matte lustre, an open ground made for block-print and hand-paint.

Mysuru

The understated crepe silk of Mysuru — lightweight, high-gloss mulberry finished with restrained fine gold. Royal patronage, quiet luxury.

Bhoodan Pochampally

The resist-dyed ikat of Telangana — pattern dyed into the yarn before weaving, with the soft feathered edges only true ikat gives. Geometric, symmetrical, honest.

Bishnupur

The storytelling silk of Bishnupur — a pallu woven with framed scenes from the Ramayana, Mahabharata and courtly life. Silk that narrates.

Uppada

The hand-inlaid sheer silk of the Indian Uppada/Bengal Jamdani tradition — figures counted and laid by hand into whisper-light ground. (Distinct from Bangladeshi Dhakai Jamdani.)

Sualkuchi

The golden wild silk of Assam — indigenous muga (never mulberry) whose natural sheen deepens with age. Once reserved for royalty, among the most durable silks alive.

Kota

The square-grid khat of Rajasthan — an airy silk-cotton weave, transparent and feather-light, scattered with fine zari buti. Grace made for warmth.